Artist Series: A One Week Scotland Road Trip, inspired by Bon Iver
Welcome to the Artist Series, where I pair albums with the perfect itineraries. Some people experience music through color—a neurological condition called chromesthesia. I don’t see music that way, but I do experience it through memories, places, and time. This is known as music-evoked autobiographical memory, and it’s actually pretty common.
Think of this series as a mix of travel inspiration and a personal diary. The connections I draw between albums and destinations come from the emotions, memories, and “vibes” each place stirs up for me. Sometimes the tie will be obvious—linked to a song lyric, a story about the artist, or the feeling of an album. Other times, it’s more abstract, built purely on the atmosphere and mood.
Either way, the goal is simple: to inspire new adventures and fresh ways of experiencing music. Thanks for coming along for the ride!
Victoria Street, Edinburgh
The Album: SABLE, fABLE, Bon Iver
About Bon Iver
The first time I heard Bon Iver (pronounced BONE ee-VAIR), it felt less like listening to a band and more like stepping into a memory I didn’t know I had. The music carried a kind of stillness—fragile, haunting, and deeply human.
That sense of intimacy traces back to the project’s origin. In the winter of 2006, Justin Vernon retreated to a cabin in the woods of Wisconsin, nursing heartbreak while searching for clarity. Over three quiet months, he recorded what would become For Emma, Forever Ago (2007), an album that turned isolation into something communal. Its whispered confessions and raw beauty spread far beyond the cabin walls, resonating with listeners around the world.
Though Bon Iver began as Vernon’s solo project, it soon grew into a band. Sean Carey, Michael Lewis, Matthew McCaughan, Andrew Fitzpatrick, and Jenn Wasner joined him, layering new instruments, textures, and voices onto the project’s evolving sound.
Each Bon Iver record feels like a season. Bon Iver (2011) expanded the sound into lush, cinematic landscapes, winning the Grammy for Best Alternative Music Album. 22, A Million (2016) broke the mold with fractured sounds and cryptic symbols, pushing the boundaries of indie folk. i,i (2019), described as the project’s “autumn,” brought warmth, community, and earned a Grammy nomination for Album of the Year.
Their latest release, SABLE, fABLE (2025), continues that arc, exploring new sonic terrain while staying rooted in the emotional honesty that has always defined Bon Iver.
The band’s name itself—drawn from the French phrase bon hiver, or “good winter”—captures its essence: music born from the cold quiet of solitude, yet carrying a kind of warmth that stays with you long after the final note fades.
SABLE, fABLE & Why Scotland
Map of Scotland
On the surface, you may think, “well she obviously picked this album because of the track title Speyside being a town in Scotland,” but honestly it was just a happy coincidence I realized after I’d already jotted this down on my short list. Maybe it’s that I spent many hours in a friends flat listening to For Emma, Forever Ago during my time studying abroad there in 2009 but even more than that SABLE, fABLE just feels like it belong in Scotland.
When I put his album on, I am instantly transported to a cozy stone cottage, sitting by a fire with a dram as a light rain rolls through the Highlands just outside.
The Itinerary:
Day 1: Edinburgh
Day 2: Edinburgh
Day 3: Glencoe
Day 4: Isle of Skye
Day 5: Isle of Skye
Day 6: Isle of Skye
Day 7: Loch Lomond
Day 1: Edinburgh’s Old Town
Edinburgh carries a layered, almost cinematic energy. The city’s blend of medieval streets, neoclassical architecture and misty hills mirrors SABLE, fABLE’s mix of warmth and melancholy. Walking through the winding closes and up to Arthur’s seat - there are views that will stop you in your tracks around every corner.
The main city center of Edinburgh is divided into “Old Town” and “New Town” - divided by the Princes Street Gardens, sitting at the base of Edinburgh Castle. Spend day one in Old Town, known for its Reformation-era architecture.
The Royal Mile
The Royal Mile is the historic spine of Edinburgh’s Old Town, stretching from Edinburgh Castle down to Holyrood Palace. Along the way, you’ll find landmarks like St. Giles’ Cathedral, explore narrow alleyways known as closes, and even spot the famous Heart of Midlothian—a heart-shaped mosaic marking the old Tolbooth prison.
Edinburgh Castle
Perched atop Castle Rock, this iconic fortress dominates the skyline. Even if you don’t go inside, be sure to at least visit the esplanade - the views from here are absolutely stunning. Self-guided as well as guided tours are available if you’d like to explore inside the castle walls. Some of the highlights include Scotland’s crown jewels and the 1’oclock gun.
Victoria Street
This curving, colorful street feels straight out of a storybook - and is in fact said to be the inspiration for ‘Diagon Alley’ in the Harry Potter series. Lined with independent shops, cafes, and boutique stores, it’s one of the most photographed spots in the city.
The Grassmarket
A lively square in the heart of Old Town, the Grassmarket is full of pubs, cafes, and shops, perfect for people-watching or grabbing a bite. Historically, it was the site of public markets and even public executions, giving it a slightly darker, intriguing past beneath its cheerful atmosphere today.
Arthur’s Seat
An ancient volcano and the highest point in Holyrood Park, Arthur’s Seat offers sweeping views over Edinburgh. Used by locals for centuries for grazing and gatherings, it’s also tied to legends and folklore, making a hike here feel like stepping into both nature and history.
Day 2: Edinburgh’s New Town
New Town, known for its neo-classical and Georgian period architecture, offers a totally different vibe for day two.
Dean Village
A peaceful pocket just a short walk from the city center, Dean Village, along the Water of Leigh walkway, is full of charming old stone houses. Once a bustling milling village in the 12th century, it has retained its historic charm while offering a serene escape from the city streets - you will feel like you have been transported to Shakespearian times as you wander along the waterway.
Princes Street Gardens
Nestled between the Old and New Towns, these gardens were carved from the former Nor Loch in the 18th century. Today, they’re a green oasis perfect for a stroll or picnic, with stunning views of Edinburgh Castle and a reminder of how the city has evolved over centuries.
Calton Hill
A short climb (did I mention Edinburgh is built on several hills?) rewards you with panoramic city views and several monuments, including the National Monument and Nelson Monument. The hill has been a focal point for public celebrations, gatherings, and commemorations for centuries, making it a place where history and skyline meet.
Day 3: Glencoe & Fort William
Known as the “Outdoor Capital of the Highlands,” Glencoe is a place where history, legend and and natural beauty converge. Glencoe is a valley of dramatic peaks, like the Three Sisters, misty ridge lines and sweeping landscapes that feel almost otherworldly - somehow epic and serene. It is the kind of place that takes your breath away - the rugged intense part of SABLE, fABLE turned into scenery.
Three Sisters of Glencoe
Rising dramatically from the valley floor, the Three Sisters dominate the Glencoe landscape. Their rugged, steep ridges were carved by glaciers over thousands of years. This is one of Scotland’s most photographed landscapes.
Meeting of the Three Waters
The Meeting of the Three Waters is a picturesque cascade where three streams converge, tumbling through the glen before joining the River Coe.
Loch Levin
Framed by mountains and dotted with islands, Loch Leven is a tranquil escape just beyond Glencoe. Its calm waters reflect the shifting Highland skies, and it’s a favorite for kayaking, boat trips, or simply watching the light dance across the loch at sunset.
Ben Nevis
The tallest mountain in the UK, Ben Nevis towers at 4,413 feet and draws adventurers from around the world. Whether you’re tackling the hike or admiring it from below, its snow-dusted summit often disappears into the clouds, adding to its mystique.
Day 4-6: Isle of Skye
Located off Scotland’s northwest coast, the Isle of Skye is a land of rugged mountains, sea cliffs and fairy-tale landscapes. Skye is dramatic, magical, and a little wild—mountains, cliffs, hidden pools, and fairy-tale landscapes. Listening to SABLE, fABLE here feels like the music and the land were made for each other.
Portree
The island’s colorful harbor town, Portree is Skye’s cultural heart—lined with pastel houses, cozy pubs, boutique shops and a lively waterfront that makes it the perfect base for exploring the island.
Old Man for Storr
Perhaps Skye’s most iconic landmark, the Old Man of Storr is a towering rock pinnacle set against rolling hills and sweeping sea views. A short but steep hike rewards visitors with one of the island’s most breathtaking panoramas.
Mealt Rock
Here, sheer cliffs drop dramatically into the sea beside the Kilt Rock waterfall, which tumbles straight into the ocean. On windy days, the water is blown back upward, creating an unforgettable natural spectacle.
Fairy Glen
A whimsical landscape of grassy mounds and spiraling paths, the Fairy Glen feels like something lifted from folklore.
Neist Point
At the far western tip of Skye, Neist Point is crowned by its iconic lighthouse and dramatic sea cliffs. It’s one of the best spots on the island for sunsets, with sweeping views out to the Atlantic.
Talisker Bay
Tucked between steep cliffs, Talisker Bay is a striking black-sand beach washed by the Atlantic waves. Remote and moody, this was one of my favorite walks on my last visit to Scotland.
Fairy Pools
The Fairy Pools are a series of crystal-clear cascades set at the foot of the Black Cuillin mountains.
Day 7: Loch Lomond
Peaceful, reflective, and beautiful in a way that makes you slow down. Whether you’re walking along the shore or just watching the water ripple in the wind, it has the same calm, introspective vibe as some of SABLE, fABLE’s softer moments.
Luss Village
A tiny, charming village right on the shores of Loch Lomond, Luss feels like stepping into a postcard. Cobblestone streets, colorful cottages, and a relaxed waterfront make it the perfect spot to wander, grab a coffee, and just soak in the views.
Loch Lomond & The Trossachs National Park
This national park is all about variety—rolling hills, sparkling lochs, dense forests, and hidden trails. It’s ideal for everything from a gentle walk along the water to a more adventurous hike, or even just a scenic drive with plenty of stops to take in the views.
Balloch Castle
Sitting at the southern tip of Loch Lomond, Balloch Castle is surrounded by sprawling gardens and parkland. Even if you don’t go inside, the castle grounds are perfect for a stroll, a picnic, or snapping that classic Scottish photo with the loch in the background.
About Scotland
The Location:
Scotland is a country in the northern part of the United Kingdom, located on the island of Great Britain just north of England, bordered by the Atlantic Ocean, the North Sea, and the Irish Sea.
Its capital city, Edinburgh, is located along the Firth of Forth on the eastern side of Scotland. It is about 7.5 hours north of London by car.
The Weather:
Edinburgh has a temperate maritime climate thanks in part to its proximity to the North Sea. It is a common misconception that it is perpetually rainy - averaging only about 27 in annually (compared to Seattle’s 37 in annually). Visitors can expect long summer days and winters with shorter daylight periods.
Winter (December - February): Temperatures are often in the mid-30’s (F), this time of year sees more frequent rainfall with occasional snow. The days are short, with the sun rising as late as 8:30 a.m. and setting as early as 4 p.m.
Spring (March - May): Temperatures are more mild but certainly not hot in the spring in Edinburgh. Daytime highs can range from the low 40’s to mid-50’s this time of year.
Summer (June - August): The average daytime temperatures for summer in Edinburgh are in the mid-60’s. The days are also much longer - sunrise can be as early as 4:30 a.m. and sunset at 9:30 p.m.or later.
Fall (September - November): Fall temperatures are often in the mid-50’s in Edinburgh. The days start to become longer and the wind begins to pick up as you head into the winter months.
Edinburgh’s History:
While there is evidence of human settlement dating back to prehistoric times in Edinburgh, the city was officially grated its status of a royal burgh by King David I in the early 12th century. During this time, the first stone structures of what is now Edinburgh Castle, including St. Mary’s Chapel, were constructed atop “Castle Rock.” From there the town spread down the hill in what is now lovingly referred to at “Old Town.” It is here that you will notice architecture that characterizes the medieval time period in which it was built (the 1400-1500’s).
In the 15th century, Edinburgh became home to the primary royal residence and the site of Scotland’s Parliament - solidifying its place as the capital of Scotland. In the 16th and 17th centuries, the city saw much growth leading to over crowding and grisly living conditions, earning it the nickname ‘Auld Reekie.’ It was in the 1700s that the city expanded across what is now referred to as ‘Princes St. Gardens’ into “New Town,” characterized by its Georgian architecture and grid structure - influencing European urban planning.
Today, both Old Town & New Town are listed at UNESCO World Heritage Sites.
Famous Residents of Edinburgh Past & Present:
Edinburgh has a literary tradition, leading to its designation as a UNESCO City of Literature in 2004. Some notable authors include:
Sir Walter Scott (Rob Roy, Ivanhoe)
Robert Louis Stevenson (Treasure Island)
Sir Arthur Conan Doyle (Sherlock Holmes)
Irvine Welsh (Trainspotting)
Ian Rankin (Inspector Rebus)
JK Rowling (Harry Potter)
How to Get to Edinburgh
Flying into Edinburgh:
The closest airport to Edinburgh is…. Edinburgh Airport (EDI). It is located in the Ingliston area of Edinburgh about a 20 minute drive from the main city center. This international airport has several direct flights available to/from the United States as well as major airports throughout Europe.
Airport Transfers:
🚋 By Tram: Trams are one of the easiest ways to get to Edinburgh’s city center. They depart every 7 minutes between the hours of 7am - 7 p.m. The journey to the City Center (Waverley Station) takes about 30 minutes. Tickets can be pre-purchased online or at the airport before boarding. There are several stops along the route that may be closer to your lodging - be sure to check the route map in advance to select the stop that best fits your needs.
🚌 By Bus: Bus services are available to Edinburgh as well as other cities throughout Scotland. Utilize the Airlink 100 route or Airport Express services for the most efficient routes into Edinburgh’s City Center. For a more affordable option, though less efficient, take the 17 or 18 Lothian Bus to reach the city center. More information on bus routes and options can be found here.
🚕 By taxi: The taxi rank can be foudn in the East Terminus near the arrivals area. You can make a booking online in advance or upon your arrival at the rank. Fares are set by the City of Edinburgh council and apply to all taxis that operate at the airport. A copy of the fare table can be found here.
Arriving by Train:
Edinburgh is easily accessible by train from other areas of the UK including London, Glasgow and Manchester to name a few. If you are looking for a truly unique experience, consider booking a ticket on the Caledonian Sleeper from London to Edinburgh. Most trains will stop at Edinburgh Waverley station located in the heart of the city center. From there you can walk, take a taxi or bus to your accommodations.
Getting Around:
Do you need a rental car in Edinburgh? Honestly, no - probably not. Edinburgh is very walkable, if you’re up for climbing some hills. If you prefer to take a ride, there is abundant public transportation including a robust bus system that can get you most anywhere. Taxi’s are also very easy to find in Edinburgh and reasonably priced. Was it even a proper trip to the UK if you didn’t take a ride in a classic black cab?
For the remainder of the trip, I would recommend renting a car. This allows you the opportunity to explore at your own pace and prioritize the experiences that are most appealing to you. Driving on the opposite side of the road may seem intimidating and it certainly takes some getting used to but by the time you wrap your trip, you will be a pro. Leave your ego at home, start slow and remember that here is zero shame in utilizing the turn outs to let people pass.
Of course, if you prefer to have someone else do the driving for you, there are several tour operators to choose from that offer both single and multi-day itineraries for exploring beyond Scotland’s capital city.
Scotland’s Outdoor Access Code
Scotland is famous for letting people explore its wild spaces, and the Outdoor Access Code makes it clear how to do that responsibly. Basically, you’re free to walk, cycle, or camp almost anywhere, but you’re asked to respect the land, wildlife, and people who live there. Stick to paths when you can, pack out your garbage, and be considerate around farms and livestock—basically, enjoy the freedom without leaving a trace. It’s what makes Scotland’s mountains, lochs, and glens so accessible and enjoyable for everyone.
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